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Maître-de-Chai is French for Master of the Cellar, a name that these young winemakers take seriously. The site has 65-year-old vines and is farmed organically by Alex and Martin. You’d be hard pressed to blind this as Sauvignon Blanc; it is citrus dominated, with a prominent lemon pith edged by grapefruit peel - lots of briny minerals and lots of tension. As Vom Boden says: “Let the vineyard do its work and don’t *** it up in the cellar. That’s the master’s role.” And that’s what MDC does, these wines are extraordinarily good.