Albarino Rias Baixas Trico 2016 - Depanneur Wines

Albarino Rias Baixas Trico 2016

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Tricó is the Gallego word for a child who is born well after his or her brothers and sisters. José Antonio López named this wine after his last son, who arrived as a “blessing” well after José Antonio and his wife thought they were through having children. José Antonio is one of the winemakers who are leading a quality revolution in the Rias Baixas. Many winemakers have been content to make fresh, zippy Albariños that can easily ride the grape’s wave of popularity without being particularly compelling.

With Tricó, José Antonio is out to prove that Albariño in the Rias Baixas is capable of achieving the same mineral-inflected greatness as Austrian Riesling or Loire Chenin. This wine is a true show-stopper, and the package is sharp as a tack. It features an explanation (in Spanish) of the name Tricó as well as a drawing of José Antonio’s village, as rendered by his mother in 1938.

Hands down one of the most elegant Albariños we've ever had. So much attention and patience go into these wines. 

Eschewing the typical Rías Baixas modus operandi of “pick, crush, ferment, bottle, sell”, José Antonio holds his wines in tank and in bottle for an unusually long time before release. The vineyards are located in the Condado do Tea sub-region, the warmest in the D.O., and they produce wines of unusual concentration and heft that benefit from José Antonio’s patience in releasing them. The flagship wine has more in common with Wachau Grüner Veltliner than it does with the zippy, one-dimensional wines that dominate the Albariño landscape. It is racked off the lees after fermentation and kept in the tank for an additional eighteen months and twelve months in bottle before release.