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“Matthias Hild farms 5 hectares in the upper Mosel doing something that makes almost zero financial sense: saving old, terraced parcels of Elbling. In this area, however, it’s important to understand Elbling is something of a religion. It’s a culture, a regional dialect that is spoken through this wine of rigorous purity, of joyous simplicity, of toothsome acidity...The comparisons are plenty, though none of them are quite right;
if Riesling is Pinot Noir, then Elbling is Gamay. If Riesling is Chenin Blanc, then Elbling is Muscadet. You get the idea. The joy of Elbling is its raucous acidity, its vigor and energy, the fact that it is so low in alcohol you could probably drink a bottle and still operate heavy machinery.” —Vom Boden, Importer